This is not a blog I use regularly, just uploaded this pattern here because at first I did not manage to get the pdf to the Ravelry pattern. However, you can find the whole instructions here too.

GRANNY SQUARE ROUND CENTER instructions with pictures

 

picture 6

picture 1

picture2

picture 3

picture 4

picture 5 

GRANNY SQUARE ROUND CENTER

for those who already know how to make plain #GrannySquares.

American terminology.

5-rounds (the ring does not count as round).

This is the kind where you work all rounds on the same side.

You need: 5 different yarns, all at about the same thickness (yarn size) and crochet hook that’s ok for your yarn (there is no absolute size, because some like it tight, some loose; try first with the number indicated on the label).

It can be made with all yarn sizes, just will be bigger or smaller.

Instructions:

Slipknot / 3 chain / close to ring

[Of course if you can do a magic ring you can use it.]

Round1:  with same yarn as ring -  3 chain / 15 dc (double crochets) into the ring, close with css (crochet slipstitch) into the top one of the 3chain at the beginning of the round / make a chain to fix the yarn and break it with short tail just long enough to weave in - see picture 1 - including the 3chain as dc you have 16

[You also can go on making two or more rounds in the same yarn, but the first stitch of the next round will be different. Omit the final chain if you go on with the same yarn.]

Round2: with new yarn - into the space between the last dc and the 3chain of round1 - 3chain -  3dc / next group of 4dc is placed into the space between the 2nd and 3rd dc of round1 seen from where you just worked into / next after 2 more dc and so on, until you have 8 groups / css into the top one of the 3chain at the beginning of the round / 1 chain / break yarn - see picture 2

[If you go on with the same yarn, instead of the 3chain at the beginning, you go into the space between the 3 chain and the first dc of tound1 and make 4dc into this space. The first one of this group of 4 will have a loop attached to the right side; you can also make 3chain instead of the first of these 4dc). 

Next group of 4 into the space between the second and the 3rd dc seen from where you just worked into.

The same is valid for the next round, but you crochet into the spaces between the groups.]

Round3: with new yarn - into the spaces between the groups of 4, it does not matter with which one you start - 3 chain and 4dc into the first space / next group of 5 into the next space between the groups / go on making 5dc into the spaces until you have 8 groups of 5 - see picture 3

[Should your round with 5dc-groups be too short = the fabric is not lying flat but bending up - make 1chain between the groups]

Round4: with new yarn; worked as a square - into the spaces between the groups of 5, it does not matter into which you start - 3chain and 4dc into the first space / next space: *3dc - 2 half triple crochets (=2 yarn overs, but worked like a dc - see picture 4, after the first pulling through you still have 3 loops on the hook and you pull through all of them in one go - 1chain  - 2 half triple crochets - 3dc* / next space: 5dc / next space: repeat * to * / next space: 5dc / next space: repeat * to * / next space: 5dc / next space: repeat * to * / css into the top one of the 3chain at the beginning of the round / 1 chain / break yarn - see picture 5 - it is not yet a real square at this point 

[should you want to go on with the same yarn as in round 3 in round 4, you do exactly the same as described, but obviously have to use the space adjacent to where you closed the round before, and the first stitch will be the dc with the loop attached as described above].

Round5: with new yarn; worked as a square - into the spaces between the groups of 5 - start into the space you last created: 3 chain - 4dc / into the next space: 5dc / into the next space, which is a corner: repeat like * to * of round 4 / into next space: 5dc / into next space: 5dc / into the next space, which is a corner: repeat * to * / into the next space: 5dc / into the next space:  5dc / into the next space, which is a corner: repeat * to * / into the next space: 5dc / into the next space: 5dc / into the next space which is a corner: repeat * to * / css into the top one of the 3chain at the beginning of the round / 1 chain / break yarn with long tail if you want to use it for sewing together the squares, otherwise short tail - see picture 6 - you can still see some slight rounding, which will even out when sewing or crocheting the squares together.

Weave in all tails except the last ones if you use them to sew the squares together.

In my projects I have a tutorial how I sew the squares together for smaller projects (not adapt for big projects like bed covers, as I don’t sew all the stitches but just select ones

You then have to sew together the rows with the same principles.

Will use these to make a cushion cover - when it is finished, I will give further instructions in my project pages.

 Mondial Autunno Yarn

 

Signal Flux - Quarantine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1G4sEBRjGM

Flood

 CROCHET / Cardigan 1

new Blog in Facebook Group   https://www.facebook.com/berta.mayer.33/posts/7376741862400125

please be sure to read all Blogs and articles with Hashtag Generalconsiderations if you want to use my patterns - they are all freely available and published in the Facebook Group 'Crochet and Knitting Freestyle Tutorials and Showcase'

https://www.facebook.com/groups/479355086876855

CARDIGAN Projekt No. 1 / #Houndstoothpattern / learn how to crochet #Freestyle / Blog. No. 1/K

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Please read all (#) generalconsiderations *, especially regarding cast-on chain and ways to work the first row (#) crochetchainworkins * and the edges; and about working with different yarns if you use your stash (and especially if you use ereditated yarn whose peculiarities you do not know); and Blogs 1/A to 1/J.

*Sometimes, referring to a hashtag, I put a space between the # and the word, in order not to have this article appear if you search for the hashtag in my themes

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I frequently use British spelling, because that’s how I had learned it at school - but most technical terms are american, especially single crochet / double crochet …. or my own, but then I give an explanation every time I use them.

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Diary, last days before finishing the Cardigan

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Thursday

Sewing in the sleeves - as it is Kimono style, with all the parts being square, it should be an easy task, so let’s see.

Trying to do it with invisible stitches, hoping to be able to make it double face.

In Kimono Style the sleeves are both the same, so don't have to care for right or left.

Steps:

1)- Sew together some centimetres of one sleeve, from the two upper edges down, leaving the rest open for easier handling

2)- Place the exact point of the joint of the edges of the sleeve under exactly where the divide for the sleeve slot of the whole body is. The right (outer) side of the sleeve fabric comes to be against the left (inner) side of the whole body fabric - tucked inside for the height of the last row of the sleeve. Fix with stickpin, then sew together temporarily for some cm to the left and right. Picture 4)

3)- Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise, edge on edge; fold the whole body exactly where the divide for the sleeves begins, lengthwise

4)- slide the rest of the sleeve inside the slot, for the depth of the last row - both parts have the right side outside

5)- start fixing them together provisionally, with yarn of another colour (so you can find it and pull it out easily once it is sewn definitively), going up for half of the sleeve front and back.

Now you can see clearly if both parts fit together perfectly, or if you need to do some crimpling on the sleeve.

It is always better that the sleeve is a little bit bigger, rather than the slot for it on the body!! Consider this when deciding for the width of the sleeve!

6)- Now go on fixing it provisionally, try on the cardigan to see if it’s ok, make eventual correction

7)- Same process for the other sleeve, 1) to 6)

8)- Proceed fixing them permanently, with small back stitches, placed exactly on the edge of the fabric, under the fringes. Trying to do mine with as much as possible invisible stitches, that just go inside the fabric of the sleeve, but not through to its other side - if I manage, the cardigan can be used on both sides. The fringes are a small problem, they always come in the way of my needle. Fortunately, they are not very dense by now, just the left over tail ends. As much as I would have liked to add all of them immediately (as it’s easier into a loose edge than into a sewn on one) - I knew that it was wiser not do do it from experience with other garments before.

9)- pull out the provisional threads

10)- Sew on the overlapping fabric on the inside, again taking great care not to stitch completely through the bottom fabric, but only into some threads of it. Picture 3)

11)- sew together the edges of the sleeves, placing it flat (you can insert a book as a base to work on) and using small sling stitches - the kind of fabric is ideal for invisible ones. I did it on outside and then again inside, taking on only threads very near to the outer edges.

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If you want to sew it together overlapping, you have to consider this BEFORE sewing it on to the body. In this case, you have to sew it on on the inside, too.

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If you don’t want to make the cardigan double face, you can sew it together the usual way, on the left side, right side of the fabric on right side. This, too, has to be considered BEFORE sewing them to the body.

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Now, of course, if you are neither interested in having fringes, nor in a double face garment, you can weave the tails in on the left side, and then sew in the whole sleeve the usual way, right side of the fabric on right side, sewing done on the left side.

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Being a straight line sleeve and a straight line sleeve slot, the only problem that can present itself is one piece being bigger than the other. As mentioned above, it really should be the sleeve - to fix this, when sewing the upper part, stretch the fabric of the body on the edges of the slot as much as needed. If it’s just a little bit, do it as much as possible on top of the shoulder, gradually going down. Never do it on the lower part.

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For me, it’s: first sleeve fixed provisionally but successfully, without alterations!!! 👍🏽👻👻

The other one, for tomorrow…….

Oh how I would like to add some fringes, but nope, don’t let myself do it.

Can decide for their length, though. Want them as long as possible, but obviously it’s determined by the shortest present ones. Will integrate them with lots in the lighter yarn, of which I still have a good amount. Hopefully, at a later time, with some of the dark green Mohair as well - but there’s very few of it left, and I still need some for Cardigan2

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to be continued

Crochet Freestyle - Spring-Shawl - description and instruction in FB Group

 

CROCHET / Cardigan4 / Diary

https://www.facebook.com/berta.mayer.33/posts/7254496524624660

Cardigan Projekt-in-the-making No. 4 / Variation of crochet #Brickworkpattern / learn how to crochet #Freestyle / Blog No. 4/Z

Seventh part Brickwork Cardigan Diary

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‘The Brickwork’ is done, I’ve built my cardigan!! 👻

Well, it’s nearly a coat, and I really like how it became 💖

And I’ve also completed the Alphabet from A to Z 🤓

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The #belt is made like a tie, simply wrap around and knot - had less of the coloured yarns left than I thought, but it’s still ok.

Maybe in the future I will knit a belt out of the dark blue only, and a hat with light blue and a small yellow accent perhaps, taking care not to let the mohair yarns be against the skin.

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The collar can be worn either flipped outside or rolled up - but as I didn’t want to bother doing button holes as they would have been difficult to create ( 3 of them needed - the button placed on the underside on one side, which then should go through a hole on the same collar side, and then two matching holes near the other edge of the collar - see last picture, where I posed one to show the position)

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So - Do you dare to take on the project? It’s a lot of work, but easy enough and going fast, and the Kimono Version poses nearly no problems even to a fairly novel crocheter.

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Sorry for the bad quality of the pictures, I still have to use the old phone to take them.

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#crochet #masterclass #crochetdesign #crochetinspiration #crochettechnique #crochettutorial #crocheting #Cardigan4 #crochetaddict #crochetfashion #crochetlove #crochetidea #crochetproject #yarnaddict #yarn #craft #yarnlove #crochetpattern #mohairyarn #crochetalong