CROCHET / Cardigan4 - 'Variations of Brickwork' / Swatches

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Cardigan Projekt-in-the-making No. 4 / Variation of crochet #Brickworkpattern / learn how to crochet #Freestyle / Blog No. 4/Q

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SWATCHES

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Attention: The pattern wanders to the left 1 stitch in each row, therefore you have to integrate the last stitch of a new srp each row on the right side; you loose the last stitch of one srp on the left side.

Try two or more complete pattern shifts in your swatch

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Try Edge Stitches and eventually Weaving-in-as-you-go in random swatch before working the one that serves as a measure, see also Blogs 4/K,L,M,N

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Try Increases/Decreases inside the pattern (=Blog 4/C 20/2/22) on a separate swatch,

going for one whole rrp to determine the measure with decreased pattern

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Diminishing stitches inside the Stitch Repeat Pattern (srp) = one pattern element of 6 (5,7….as you choose) stitches is reduced to an element of 5 (4, 6..) stitches

It is done with any two of the 4 (3,5…) single crochets of one srp, I do it with the first two

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1) diminishing srp count per 1: put the needle into the back loop of the stitch below, from front to back -

2) put the needle into the back loop of the next stitch below, from front to back again

3) catch yarn supply, slide the yarn through both

4) finish single crochet

5) work next stitch of srp in back loop of next stitch below

Chosen for this instruction: 6 stitch repeat pattern (=srp): multiple of 6, plus 3 /

(if you start with 5 stitch repeat: multiple of 5, plus 3, etc)

revised Pattern in Blog 4/P

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Try Increases/Decreases in addition to/subctracting off the srp

You will need this for sleeves (except Kimono version) and neckline.

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Try the different colour combinations and decreased srp to see how they play out in the look of the pattern, see Blog 4/H 1/3/22

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Swatch (to determine measure) for srp of 6:

make a tight slipknot (does not count as a stitch and is not worked in) / make 21 chains = you have 21 finished chain stitches and one loop /

from now on each row is worked on the front, from right to left

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1st row: 1 single crochet into the upper loop of the second finished chain to the left / 19 more single crochets, 1 into each upper loop of the cain stitches left) / cut the yarn leaving the end as long as you need to to weave it in / either: pull it through (or do an additional chain before pulling it through, or leave the loop by now and cut the yarn and pull through after the 2nd row - depending on the method of the edge stitch you choose). = you can now count 20 stitches = 20 double loops on top of the stitches

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2nd row (new yarn, from right to left): right edge stitch as chosen into the first single crochet below / 1 double crochet into the bottom loop of the chain in which the second single crochet of the first row is worked, incorporating the sc of the row below / 1 chain / 1 single crochet into the

back loop on top of the fourth single crochet of the first row, jumping 1 single crochet in the first row / 3 more single crochets into the back loop of the single crochets

beneath / * 1 double crochet into the bottom loop of the chain under the next sc, incorporating the sc below / 1 chain / 4 sc into the back loops of the stitches beneath, jumping the one under the chain * / repeat from * to * until you have one sc left - this should coincide with the end of the last stitch repeat / 1 dc into the bottom loop of the last sc beneath incorporating the stitch below - this dc is our left edge stitch for this row - cut the yarn and pull it through or leave the loop and cut it after the next row, according to your chosen method of left edge stitch

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3rd row (new yarn): right edge stitch of your choice / 1 sc into the back loop on top of the dc beneath / * 1 dc into the back loop on top of the sc two rows below - the one under the chain - incorporating the chain / 1 chain / 1 sc into the back loop on top of the second next sc of row 2, jumping 1 / 3 sc * / repeat from * to * / the last srp will only have 3sc / left edge stitch on top of the dc beneath

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4th row: right edge stitch / 2sc / repeat from* to * of row 3 / the last srp will only have 2sc / left edge stitch

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5th row : right edge stitch / 3 sc / repeat from* to * of row 3 / 1 dc / 1 chain / 1sc jumping 1 / 1 sc / edge stitch

6th row: right edge stitch / 4 sc / repeat from* to * of row 3 twice / 1 dc / 1 chain / jumping 1 - edge stitch

7th row: right edge stitch / 1 chain / 1 sc jumping the one under the chain / 3 sc / repeat from* to * of row 3 twice / 1 dc / edge stitch

8th row: right edge stitch / repeat from * to * of row 3 - you will end this row with a complete srp / left edge stitch

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9th row: repeat row 3

10th row: repeat row 4

11th row: repeat row 5

12th row: repeat row 6

13th row: repeat row 7

rows 8 to 13 is the row repeat pattern (rrp)

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As the pattern wanders off to the left one stitch in each row,  in order to keep vertical borders and continue the pattern, you have to add the last stitch of a srp to the right of the work (after the right edge stitch), in the next row the second last stitch, then the third last stitch - until you have a whole new srp to the right. Then the same again over all your work.

At the end each row placing the last stitch of your current row on the last stitch of the row below (all before the left end stitch) - it will be one less stitch in comparison to your last srp with every new row.

You have to have the exact same number of stitches in every row as long as the piece is square.

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Measure the swatch and make your calculations

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the pictures include a swatch up to row 13, made with thick yarn in one colour to show the stitches,

right edge stitch made with 1 chain-1sc / left edge stitch made with 1sc and loop left to pull through in the next row;

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and a chart

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