CROCHET / Cardigan4 / Sleeves

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CARDIGAN Project-in-the-making No. 4 / variation of crochet #Brickworkpattern / learn how to crochet #Freestyle / Blog No. 4/S

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Sleeves

Pls note: In the last row you have to substitute the chains with single crochets. This is valid for any last row in this pattern! body, sleeves, collar and belt.

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The easiest way to determine the stitch count is to wrap the lower part of the body around your wrist and count the stitches once you have decided how large you want them to start with.

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In the KIMONO version they will have the same width and stitch repeat pattern all through, it’s up to you if you want to do them in the same count of the body, or maybe in a smaller or larger one.

They are usually not as long as normal sleeves but finish above the wrist, but obviously it’s up to you to decide. For the length you measure either your sample garment, or your arms on the inside, from the armpit down as long as you want them.

They will be a little bit shorter on the outer side than on the inside once they are finished and attached, that’s normal for this style (I’m not talking about the Japanese Kimono sleeves which are made differently and much larger, but as what the rest of the world has adapted as Kimono-Style - all rectangular elements, except the neckline).

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A loose sleeve too can be worked without increases, provided it is large enough at the wrist to fit around the upper arm; if not, just do some increases at the edges once in a while. However, it will be worked with a rounded shoulder.

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A fitted sleeve just needs increases at the edges, how many depends on how slim you start. Do the first increases of one stitch on the right edge after 8 rows, on the left after 11 rows, then another after further 6 rows on each side. Try it on around your arm and see the fit; go on increasing according to the width you desire.

It will have a rounded shoulder.

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A slim but comfortable sleeve is best achieved with increases inside the pattern plus one increase on both edges approx. every 10-12 rows

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Increase inside the pattern:

Decide for the srp count, work approx. 10 rows, increase the central srp by one, placing an additional sc in one of the sc’s inside the srp. Place a stitch marker. Now in every other row you increase inside one srp - starting with the one on the right to the one with the stitch marker, then the one on the left, then two times on the right, one time on the left, three times on the right, one time on the left. This you should be able to do without any pattern having wandered off completely on the left. If you still have patterns with the lesser stitch count left, increase them in the following rows. However, any new pattern element that appears on the right you have to do with the increased stitch count.

Don’t forget to put a stitch marker every time you increase, and follow the pattern element as it shifts to the left.

As soon as you have increased all srp’s, you work straight up, with the eventual occasional increase on the edges.

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The minimum width at the start of the decreases for the rounded shoulders models ( for Italian size 46-48) should be:

- loose sleeve: around 48 cm

- fitted sleeve: around 36 cm

- comfortable sleeve: everything in-between. It starts with ca. 28 cm at the wrist

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Decreases for the armhole:

Based on working with hook no. 3,5 and very hairy wool (approx. hook 4-4,5mm with worsted yarn), I have 78 stitches in 38cm at the height of starting the decreases.

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Thumbnail numbers, always compare with your sample garment or try on. The upper part of the sleeve has in any moment to be wide enough to fit around your upper arm-shoulder.

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For the front side: decreases of 3/2/2/1/1 stitches (eventually another 1/1) = you don’t work into the stitches of the row below

For the back side: decreases of 3/2/1 stitches (eventually another 1/1) = you don’t work into the stitches of the row below

Take care to switch sides for the second sleeve - one must mirror the other.

The roundings of the armpits have to be at about the same as the ones on the main body.

The decreases for all types of sleeve are in the same range.

Work 5 cm straight up without decreases; decrease 1 on each side; work 4 more rows; next row decrease one on each side; work 3 more rows - next row decrease 1 on each side; work 2 more rows - next row decrease 1 on each side; for 3 rows now decrease each one for 1 on each side; next row decrease two on each side, next row three on each side, next row 4 on each side= the last row, in which you work sc instead of the chains.

The overall length from the start of the decreases to the last row is approx 18cm.

When you work the front piece, do as shown in the pictures of Blog 4/R 10/3/22 to match the heights.

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Should you already have made the body part, work the sleeves to match the line of the armholes in the front parts, adjusting the decreases to the actual length (eventually some rows and decreases more or less).

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If you want a very roomy upper sleeve, skip some of the upper decreases.

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However, the armhole and rounding of the sleeve overall should be slightly longer than the rounding on the the body part - stretch the fabric at the top of the shoulder, where front and back are sewn together, when you sew the sleeves in.

If the opposite is the case, you have to add some rows to the sleeve, otherwise the fabric will be stretched and create flat, sloping shoulders.

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In any case, it is better to have more fabric on the sleeve than on the body part - if it is too much, you simply tuck it inside, then fix it against the fabric with some stitches. This is valid too for any irregularities (or corners) you create crocheting the roundings.

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When sewing in the sleeves, take care to match front to front and back to back.

Closing the lengthwise seam of the sleeves should come last, as it is easier to set them in this way.

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