Sunday, 4 September 2022

 Mondial Autunno Yarn



 




Wednesday, 20 April 2022

 CROCHET / Cardigan 1

new Blog in Facebook Group   https://www.facebook.com/berta.mayer.33/posts/7376741862400125

please be sure to read all Blogs and articles with Hashtag Generalconsiderations if you want to use my patterns - they are all freely available and published in the Facebook Group 'Crochet and Knitting Freestyle Tutorials and Showcase'

https://www.facebook.com/groups/479355086876855



CARDIGAN Projekt No. 1 / #Houndstoothpattern / learn how to crochet #Freestyle / Blog. No. 1/K

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Please read all (#) generalconsiderations *, especially regarding cast-on chain and ways to work the first row (#) crochetchainworkins * and the edges; and about working with different yarns if you use your stash (and especially if you use ereditated yarn whose peculiarities you do not know); and Blogs 1/A to 1/J.

*Sometimes, referring to a hashtag, I put a space between the # and the word, in order not to have this article appear if you search for the hashtag in my themes

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I frequently use British spelling, because that’s how I had learned it at school - but most technical terms are american, especially single crochet / double crochet …. or my own, but then I give an explanation every time I use them.


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Diary, last days before finishing the Cardigan

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Thursday

Sewing in the sleeves - as it is Kimono style, with all the parts being square, it should be an easy task, so let’s see.

Trying to do it with invisible stitches, hoping to be able to make it double face.

In Kimono Style the sleeves are both the same, so don't have to care for right or left.

Steps:

1)- Sew together some centimetres of one sleeve, from the two upper edges down, leaving the rest open for easier handling

2)- Place the exact point of the joint of the edges of the sleeve under exactly where the divide for the sleeve slot of the whole body is. The right (outer) side of the sleeve fabric comes to be against the left (inner) side of the whole body fabric - tucked inside for the height of the last row of the sleeve. Fix with stickpin, then sew together temporarily for some cm to the left and right. Picture 4)

3)- Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise, edge on edge; fold the whole body exactly where the divide for the sleeves begins, lengthwise

4)- slide the rest of the sleeve inside the slot, for the depth of the last row - both parts have the right side outside

5)- start fixing them together provisionally, with yarn of another colour (so you can find it and pull it out easily once it is sewn definitively), going up for half of the sleeve front and back.

Now you can see clearly if both parts fit together perfectly, or if you need to do some crimpling on the sleeve.

It is always better that the sleeve is a little bit bigger, rather than the slot for it on the body!! Consider this when deciding for the width of the sleeve!

6)- Now go on fixing it provisionally, try on the cardigan to see if it’s ok, make eventual correction

7)- Same process for the other sleeve, 1) to 6)

8)- Proceed fixing them permanently, with small back stitches, placed exactly on the edge of the fabric, under the fringes. Trying to do mine with as much as possible invisible stitches, that just go inside the fabric of the sleeve, but not through to its other side - if I manage, the cardigan can be used on both sides. The fringes are a small problem, they always come in the way of my needle. Fortunately, they are not very dense by now, just the left over tail ends. As much as I would have liked to add all of them immediately (as it’s easier into a loose edge than into a sewn on one) - I knew that it was wiser not do do it from experience with other garments before.

9)- pull out the provisional threads

10)- Sew on the overlapping fabric on the inside, again taking great care not to stitch completely through the bottom fabric, but only into some threads of it. Picture 3)

11)- sew together the edges of the sleeves, placing it flat (you can insert a book as a base to work on) and using small sling stitches - the kind of fabric is ideal for invisible ones. I did it on outside and then again inside, taking on only threads very near to the outer edges.

If you want to sew it together overlapping, you have to consider this BEFORE sewing it on to the body. In this case, you have to sew it on on the inside, too.

If you don’t want to make the cardigan double face, you can sew it together the usual way, on the left side, right side of the fabric on right side. This, too, has to be considered BEFORE sewing them to the body.

Now, of course, if you are neither interested in having fringes, nor in a double face garment, you can weave the tails in on the left side, and then sew in the whole sleeve the usual way, right side of the fabric on right side, sewing done on the left side.

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Being a straight line sleeve and a straight line sleeve slot, the only problem that can present itself is one piece being bigger than the other. As mentioned above, it really should be the sleeve - to fix this, when sewing the upper part, stretch the fabric of the body on the edges of the slot as much as needed. If it’s just a little bit, do it as much as possible on top of the shoulder, gradually going down. Never do it on the lower part.

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For me, it’s: first sleeve fixed provisionally but successfully, without alterations!!! 👍🏽👻👻

The other one, for tomorrow…….

Oh how I would like to add some fringes, but nope, don’t let myself do it.

Can decide for their length, though. Want them as long as possible, but obviously it’s determined by the shortest present ones. Will integrate them with lots in the lighter yarn, of which I still have a good amount. Hopefully, at a later time, with some of the dark green Mohair as well - but there’s very few of it left, and I still need some for Cardigan2

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to be continued









Crochet Freestyle - Spring-Shawl - description and instruction in FB Group

Wednesday, 23 March 2022

 

CROCHET / Cardigan4 / Diary


https://www.facebook.com/berta.mayer.33/posts/7254496524624660


Cardigan Projekt-in-the-making No. 4 / Variation of crochet #Brickworkpattern / learn how to crochet #Freestyle / Blog No. 4/Z

Seventh part Brickwork Cardigan Diary

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‘The Brickwork’ is done, I’ve built my cardigan!! 👻

Well, it’s nearly a coat, and I really like how it became 💖

And I’ve also completed the Alphabet from A to Z 🤓

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The #belt is made like a tie, simply wrap around and knot - had less of the coloured yarns left than I thought, but it’s still ok.

Maybe in the future I will knit a belt out of the dark blue only, and a hat with light blue and a small yellow accent perhaps, taking care not to let the mohair yarns be against the skin.

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The collar can be worn either flipped outside or rolled up - but as I didn’t want to bother doing button holes as they would have been difficult to create ( 3 of them needed - the button placed on the underside on one side, which then should go through a hole on the same collar side, and then two matching holes near the other edge of the collar - see last picture, where I posed one to show the position)

So - Do you dare to take on the project? It’s a lot of work, but easy enough and going fast, and the Kimono Version poses nearly no problems even to a fairly novel crocheter.

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Sorry for the bad quality of the pictures, I still have to use the old phone to take them.

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#crochet #masterclass #crochetdesign #crochetinspiration #crochettechnique #crochettutorial #crocheting #Cardigan4 #crochetaddict #crochetfashion #crochetlove #crochetidea #crochetproject #yarnaddict #yarn #craft #yarnlove #crochetpattern #mohairyarn #crochetalong







Tuesday, 22 March 2022

 

CROCHET / Cardigan4 / Diary


https://www.facebook.com/berta.mayer.33/posts/7249904331750546


Cardigan Projekt-in-the-making No. 4 / Variation of crochet #Brickworkpattern / learn how to crochet #Freestyle / Blog No. 4/Y

Sixth Part Brickwork Cardigan Diary
21/3/22
back is finished 👻😆😆👍🏽👻✌️
no picture, because phone decided not to function
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phone still nothing
going to search for all my old ones, hoping that one is ok to do the pictures
-iphone 4 actually switched on 😅 - pictures ok, but how on earth do I send it anywhere from here - no iCloud, not possible to connect, tried everything, all devices went mad, Mac making noises continuously, actually normal phone too, so not dead just nothing on screen. Only possibility to send pictures from iPhone 4 is telegram as doesn’t accept to let me enter FB, IG and else, always says password error ☹️grrrrr.
So sending it to telegram of a friend who in turn is not able to send it back to me in any other way except FB - weird and maybe some errors of thought 😌 but at least I could make a screenshot and now have picture of finished whole body on my Mac 😅😅
-was important because felt very energetic and immediately closed shoulders and set in sleeves provisionally and then with small corrections definitively, and it fits!!!!!
-well, is quite small, but foresaw that, as it’s planned for normal-size-me and not after-2yearsofquarantine-me…..
-now well into the collar - took 1 for 1 stitch out of all around neckline, plus 10 additional ones distributed evenly
-first part very Dark, but strangely enough here don’t find it difficult or boring 🤣😂🤓 . Should it be that I just was weary of the big piece?? 👻
-anyway, it’s after midnight so should stop - but wanna get to the multicolour part
22/2/22
finished collar tonight 👍🏽 and also did the last sewing in 👻. Only thing left is to do the edges
took some pictures with old phone but now not knowing what do do, can’t even send it any more to my friend …. if I only knew correct FB password; must be somewhere…
-thought before that some days without connection must be nice, but couldn’t be more wrong, drives me crazy instead not being able to communicate with anyone; new phone already arrived, but has yet to be formatted…….only media-store near here has closed as a result of Covid-restrictions, so have to wait until finding someone doing it for me…….
-did some more belt, nearly to the coloured part, so maybe will finish it today too
evviva, capable to enter FB, let’s hope the pictures arrive
#crochet #masterclass #crochetdesign #crochetinspiration #crochettechnique #crochettutorial #crocheting #Cardigan4 #crochetaddict #crochetfashion #crochetlove #crochetidea #crochetproject #yarnaddict #yarn #craft #yarnlove #crochetpattern #mohairyarn #crochetalong







Sunday, 20 March 2022

 


CROCHET / Cardigan4 / Diary

https://www.facebook.com/berta.mayer.33/posts/7241669809240665

Cardigan Projekt-in-the-making No. 4 / Variation of crochet #Brickworkpattern / learn how to crochet #Freestyle / Blog No. 4/X
Fifth part Brickwork Cardigan Diary
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13/3/22
is it concerning that, instead of going on, after two rows I rather search for tasks I usually loathe to do?? 😹
ok, let’s do some more Dark
edge is a little bit wriggly, so left long tails and worked some single crochets - barely noticeable, and once the edges get their finish, it will be hidden under the sewing sling stitches - pictures 1), 2)
Correct faults like this immediately, so in the next rows you can incorporate the repair-stitch
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second front finished! Still don’t like to work this yarn, but must admit it gives a lovely spongy texture
-noticing once again how much of the cat’s hair (and mine, too) is woven into the fabric - very good method to top up the supply 👻
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forgot that I was watering the plants - cat drinking the stream I created - fortunately didn’t use any pesticides so far this spring - pictures 3), 4)
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now even done some rows of the back; there is an end in sight 😅
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16/3/22
2 days passed and no progress, made decision not to work on it as long as the sun isn’t out (lazy me 😚) but it makes no sense to do one row and then discover that I’d made a mistake; and when working inside, my Mohair allergy comes knocking at the door swiftly. Or maybe it’s not the material, just that the mites prefer to live in more hairy wool ?
Do you experience something like that?
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19/3/22
finally nice weather with decent sun so can crochet outside 👻
did some rows of the upper back - two more good days and it will be done!!
-anyway, belt definitively will be in 'normal' single crochet, can’t bother with the pattern much longer
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20/3/22
some more rows, one good day and body should be finished definitively
-did a piece of the belt, incorporating the colour-swatch (all the others are not the right size so will be frogged) picture 5)
-much easier to do ‘normal’ single crochet in both of the top loops, but still having trouble with the edges where I can’t feel it and don’t see where I put the hook into - however, this can be levelled sewing it together, and after all it’s on the back side
-no need to weave in the tails, they will be inside and the edges sewn anyway
-passed twice with loose sewing sling stitches - taking care to take in edges only and not the fabric on the other side, as this would disturb the elasticity - picture 6)
-belt backside will be fixed lightly to front side, when it’s finished, every 15 or so cm, each with a separate piece of yarn, just to be sure that the back stays at the back
-like the bell bottom effect, caused by the thicker yellow Mohair - it mirrors the effect on the cardigan itself 👍🏽 picture 7)
-will do 100cm in dark approx., then use up colours left after making collar
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-actually, single crochet goes pretty fast; reconsidering decision to use yarn only for knitting in future, as texture with crocheting is great and not too stretchy
#crochet #masterclass #crochetdesign #crochetinspiration #crochettechnique #crochettutorial #crocheting #Cardigan4 #crochetaddict #crochetfashion #crochetlove #crochetidea #crochetproject #yarnaddict #yarn #craft #yarnlove #crochetpattern #mohairyarn #crochetalong


1) irregularity in edge -



2) - correct it with some single crochets, in the coming row there will be 1 sc more



3) better here than from a plant saucer



4) new fashion of artificial waterfall - water bill soaring 🐾



5) swatch incorporated in belt - it had a dark row from the beginning, so only have to go on crocheting on the other side



6) two passages with sling stitches



7) nice bell-bottom effect


Saturday, 12 March 2022

 CROCHET / Cardigan4 / Sleeves

https://www.facebook.com/berta.mayer.33/posts/7206184309455882

CARDIGAN Project-in-the-making No. 4 / variation of crochet #Brickworkpattern / learn how to crochet #Freestyle / Blog No. 4/S
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Sleeves
Pls note: In the last row you have to substitute the chains with single crochets. This is valid for any last row in this pattern! body, sleeves, collar and belt.
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The easiest way to determine the stitch count is to wrap the lower part of the body around your wrist and count the stitches once you have decided how large you want them to start with.
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In the KIMONO version they will have the same width and stitch repeat pattern all through, it’s up to you if you want to do them in the same count of the body, or maybe in a smaller or larger one.
They are usually not as long as normal sleeves but finish above the wrist, but obviously it’s up to you to decide. For the length you measure either your sample garment, or your arms on the inside, from the armpit down as long as you want them.
They will be a little bit shorter on the outer side than on the inside once they are finished and attached, that’s normal for this style (I’m not talking about the Japanese Kimono sleeves which are made differently and much larger, but as what the rest of the world has adapted as Kimono-Style - all rectangular elements, except the neckline).
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A loose sleeve too can be worked without increases, provided it is large enough at the wrist to fit around the upper arm; if not, just do some increases at the edges once in a while. However, it will be worked with a rounded shoulder.
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A fitted sleeve just needs increases at the edges, how many depends on how slim you start. Do the first increases of one stitch on the right edge after 8 rows, on the left after 11 rows, then another after further 6 rows on each side. Try it on around your arm and see the fit; go on increasing according to the width you desire.
It will have a rounded shoulder.
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A slim but comfortable sleeve is best achieved with increases inside the pattern plus one increase on both edges approx. every 10-12 rows
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Increase inside the pattern:
Decide for the srp count, work approx. 10 rows, increase the central srp by one, placing an additional sc in one of the sc’s inside the srp. Place a stitch marker. Now in every other row you increase inside one srp - starting with the one on the right to the one with the stitch marker, then the one on the left, then two times on the right, one time on the left, three times on the right, one time on the left. This you should be able to do without any pattern having wandered off completely on the left. If you still have patterns with the lesser stitch count left, increase them in the following rows. However, any new pattern element that appears on the right you have to do with the increased stitch count.
Don’t forget to put a stitch marker every time you increase, and follow the pattern element as it shifts to the left.
As soon as you have increased all srp’s, you work straight up, with the eventual occasional increase on the edges.
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The minimum width at the start of the decreases for the rounded shoulders models ( for Italian size 46-48) should be:
- loose sleeve: around 48 cm
- fitted sleeve: around 36 cm
- comfortable sleeve: everything in-between. It starts with ca. 28 cm at the wrist
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Decreases for the armhole:
Based on working with hook no. 3,5 and very hairy wool (approx. hook 4-4,5mm with worsted yarn), I have 78 stitches in 38cm at the height of starting the decreases.
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Thumbnail numbers, always compare with your sample garment or try on. The upper part of the sleeve has in any moment to be wide enough to fit around your upper arm-shoulder.
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For the front side: decreases of 3/2/2/1/1 stitches (eventually another 1/1) = you don’t work into the stitches of the row below
For the back side: decreases of 3/2/1 stitches (eventually another 1/1) = you don’t work into the stitches of the row below
Take care to switch sides for the second sleeve - one must mirror the other.
The roundings of the armpits have to be at about the same as the ones on the main body.
The decreases for all types of sleeve are in the same range.
Work 5 cm straight up without decreases; decrease 1 on each side; work 4 more rows; next row decrease one on each side; work 3 more rows - next row decrease 1 on each side; work 2 more rows - next row decrease 1 on each side; for 3 rows now decrease each one for 1 on each side; next row decrease two on each side, next row three on each side, next row 4 on each side= the last row, in which you work sc instead of the chains.
The overall length from the start of the decreases to the last row is approx 18cm.
When you work the front piece, do as shown in the pictures of Blog 4/R 10/3/22 to match the heights.
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Should you already have made the body part, work the sleeves to match the line of the armholes in the front parts, adjusting the decreases to the actual length (eventually some rows and decreases more or less).
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If you want a very roomy upper sleeve, skip some of the upper decreases.
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However, the armhole and rounding of the sleeve overall should be slightly longer than the rounding on the the body part - stretch the fabric at the top of the shoulder, where front and back are sewn together, when you sew the sleeves in.
If the opposite is the case, you have to add some rows to the sleeve, otherwise the fabric will be stretched and create flat, sloping shoulders.
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In any case, it is better to have more fabric on the sleeve than on the body part - if it is too much, you simply tuck it inside, then fix it against the fabric with some stitches. This is valid too for any irregularities (or corners) you create crocheting the roundings.
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When sewing in the sleeves, take care to match front to front and back to back.
Closing the lengthwise seam of the sleeves should come last, as it is easier to set them in this way.